3D Printing & Modeling + Ed3DP

2. 3D Printing

2.4. Bed Adhesion

Prints warping, lifting and not sticking properly to the bed can be an issue with 3D printing.  Normally, 3D printers blast down a huge "raft" that essentially pints a preparatory base that the actual print job sits on but this is time consuming, wasteful and causes a lot of issues with separating the job from the raft.

Ed3DP has designed out the need for a "raft" with a bed calibration routine using an inductance sensor that stores a contour map of the print bed and adjusts the height as it prints to compensate so that the nozzle is always precisely at the correct height.

PLA will require some water based glue stick applied to the Aluminum bed before each print.  "UHU" brand is best as it is very moist and stays sticky for a long time while the first layer is printed.  Other brands are too dry and turn into "rice paper" upon application and the print doesn't stick.  "Bostik" aslo works satisfactorily but "UHU" is superior.  Just clean the bed occasionally with scraper or stainless scourer pad and water.  The bed is best left a bit "dirty" rather than perfectly clean as this actually aids print adhesion.

Filaments other than PLA - HIPS, ABS & Nylon etc will require a small application of either Hairspray or "Filament Juice" which is the filament dissolved in solvent.  The solvent is commonly acetone, however, a far superior solvent is printing "ecosolvent" which is also a ketone but with a much higher boiling point and lower vapour pressure so it doesn't evaporate quickly like common acetone.  Simply get a sauce bottle and cut up pieces of HIPS/ABS and put in the bottle and top up with ecosolvent (or acetone) and let sit for a week with shaking.  Make an applicator with a paint brush and plastic bag and rubber band and brush onto the hot bed just before the print starts.  Clean the bed occasionally with a scrapper or stainless steel scourer with some ecosolvent and paper towel.  Leave the bed a bit dirty as this aids adhesion.